Mix up your materials? A handy guide to the differences between common vintage fabrics, glass and stone
We set the record straight on common material mix-ups in the vintage and secondhand space. If you can never remember the difference between silk and satin, or gypsum and onyx, refer to our handy guide.
One of the great (and potentially underrated) skills that someone develops as a vintage collector or seller is the ability to discern quality, authenticity and production details of the items they encounter.
However, this is a learned aptitude that comes with time and experience. Particularly when it comes to well-done reproductions, even seasoned treasure hunters can be thrown for a loop.
Here are a few common material mix-ups and some quick tips to keep on hand to help ensure you know what you’re seeing and whether it’s worth your time and money.
Alabaster gypsum vs. onyx
Alabaster gypsum
Typically white or light in colour with a fine grain, alabaster gypsum is a naturally occurring material and much softer than onyx. It can be easily scratched with a fingernail test.
It’s soft, waxy, and smooth to the touch, but tends to be matte in appearance.
Find it: Typically you’ll see alabaster gypsum used for sculptures, lamps and other small decorative objects.
Onyx
With a unique character, onyx is a type of chalcedony, a naturally occurring silicate mineral, and usually features multi-coloured banding with a glossy or transparent finish.
Cold to the touch, onyx is typically polished to a sleek, shiny surface.
Find it: Frequently onyx is used in jewellery but you might find it in the form of book ends, ashtrays and smaller sculptures.
Laminate vs. veneer
Laminate
This versatile product can simulate wood, stone, or an array of other materials but often has a clearly artificial look due to its uniformity in colour and pattern.
Even and smooth, laminate often feels plastic.
Find it: Inexpensive furniture, countertops and cabinets are all standard uses for laminate.
Veneer
Veneer is a thin slice of real wood that has been glued to some other less expensive material — particleboard, for example. It has natural variation and wood grain patterns.
A good substitute, veneer comes in all kinds of woods, including teak, walnut and rosewood.
Find it: Veneer is a usual finish for mid- to high-range furniture, cabinets and panelling.
Silk vs. satin
Silk
So soft with a natural lustre and soft glow, real silk is produced by the silkworm and varies in shimmer with light. It is a gentle, lightweight fibre known for how easily it drapes in its styling.
Soft, smooth, and a little bit cool to the touch, genuine silk feels luxurious and breathes well. You can also try a burn test to know what you are dealing with (Ed. note: Thanks Pat, in comments!)
Find it: Silk is a go-to for high-end garments, scarves and bedding.
Satin
A lower-cost alternative to silk, satin is shiny with a glossy finish on one side and dull finish on the other. It's a weave and can be manufactured with a combination of silk, polyester or synthetic fibres like nylon.
Satin slithers easily, and is slippery with a smooth surface — but it's not as breathable as pure silk. There are a variety of types of satin, including charmeuse, baron, antique, messaline, polysatin, duchess, slipper and crepe-back.
Helpful tip: Satin is different than sateen, which is made from cotton and woven differently.
Find it: Evening gowns, lingerie and formal wear can all be found in affordable satin.
Flashed glass vs. painted glass vs. iridescent glass
Flashed glass
A uniquely vintage style of glassware, flashed glass is one layer of coloured glass fused onto clear glass, which can wear off or chip away with age to reveal the clear glass below.
When well-produced, it is smooth, with no difference in texture between the layers.
Find it: Flashed glass was used to produce decorative windows, vases and many other types of glassware.
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Painted glass
Often mistaken for flashed or carnival glass, painted glass is simply a solid or mix of colouring painted or stained onto clear glass. The paint may fade or scratch over time.
Sometimes the paint is slightly raised where applied.
Find it: Often sold as faux carnival glass, this painted decorative glass can be found on stained glass windows or on various dishware.
Iridescent glass
Carnival glass is perhaps one of the most common forms of iridescent glass, generally showing a metallic, rainbow sheen in its colour. The effect is achieved with the application of metallic substances or stannous chloride or lead chloride to the glass before reheating.
Smooth and cool, the iridescence effect of this gorgeous glassware can be seen from all angles.
Find it: From the early 20th century, iridescent and carnival glass can be found as glassware, dishes and decorative pieces that are highly collectible.
Bakelite vs. Lucite
Bakelite
Bakelite is opaque, with rich deep colours; however, an aged Bakelite can develop a patina that might dull its appearance.
This plastic-like product feels warm and smooth and is of a heavier weight than modern plastic items. When rubbed, it gives off a particular chemical smell that is recognizable to collectors.
Find it: Bakelite is a common find in early 20th-century vintage jewellery, radios and kitchenware.
Lucite
Lucite is clear or translucent, with bright, vibrant colours. It does not tarnish or lose its polish over time. It's the brand name of a type of acrylic that is also sometimes referred to as Plexiglas.
Light, smooth and cool to the touch, Lucite is also lighter than Bakelite and does not give off any smell when rubbed. It's shatter-proof, too.
Find it: Another fashion favourite, Lucite can be found in the form of mid-century jewellery, handbags and decorative items.
Velvet vs. velour
Velvet
Rich and luxurious, with a soft, dense pile, velvet has a slight sheen created by the direction in which the nap lies. If you brush it from side to side, there will be a noticeable difference in its colour. It can be made from a variety of natural-synthetic fibre blends.
This popular woven fabric is soft, smooth, and plush, with a deep pile for that ultimate touch.
Find it: Velvet is often used for high-end clothing, upholstery and draperies.
Velour
Velour is a knit fabric that looks like velvet, but the pile is shorter and not as dense. Usually, it is a much stretchier variety with much less shine.
While still soft and plush, velour is usually made from polyester and is lighter and not as sumptuous as velvet. You may come across cotton-poly blends.
Find it: Informal garments, tracksuits, and some cheaper upholstery are all common uses for velour.
Porcelain vs. bone china
Porcelain
Usually white or ivory, with a smooth and often glossy finish, porcelain is opaque and slightly thicker than bone china.
Smooth and cool to the touch, with a heavier, solid feel, porcelain is durable and chip-resistant (though still quite breakable).
Find it: Porcelain is a standard for everyday dish ware, decorative plates and figurines.
Bone china
Quite delicate and translucent, with a lighter, more refined look than porcelain, bone china has a warm, slightly creamy colour.
Light with a fine, almost eggshell-like feel, bone china is known for its quality and resistance to chipping.
Find it: Expect to see bone china markings on high-end dish ware, tea sets and fine dining items.
Have more common mix-ups? Let us know in the comments below!
Ed. note: This article was updated after publishing Oct. 2, 2024 to reflect a couple of additions from the comment below.
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Krista Montelpare is a freelance writer based in Nova Scotia and the founder of vintage shop Cellary.
