Ed. note: This article was originally published on Apr. 30, 2021 and has been updated.

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‍Brush up on your vintage vocabulary with this non-exhaustive list of key words that every seller and buyer should know.

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This list is updated on an ongoing basis. Have a term you’d like to see added? Send it to us!

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For more, check out our related article covering how we define vintage.

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ANTIQUE

An object that is more than 100 years old. Antiques can range in price depending on age, quality and rarity.

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ANTIQUITIES

Relics from the ancient past, especially those that pre-date the Middle Ages.

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ARBITRAGE

The practice of taking advantage of price differences between two or more markets to make a profit. In the context of reselling, this often involves buying goods at a lower price in one market and selling them for a higher price in another market, or taking advantage of fluctuations in the prices of similar goods across different platforms.

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AUTHENTICATION

The practice of verifying the legitimacy and origin of a high-value or luxury secondhand item, either by humans or artificial intelligence. Human authenticators look for specific details in stitching patterns, labels, hardware stamping, material construction, typeface and more to determine whether an item is real and original. With AI-enabled authentication, machine learning and computer vision technology use sophisticated algorithms to analyze the same kind of minute details to detect inconsistencies that might indicate a counterfeit, providing a modern layer of assurance for buyers.

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BAKELITE

A resin originally developed in 1907 and considered to be the first synthetic plastic. Bakelite was prized for its durability, resistance to heat and electricity, and ability to be moulded into a variety of shapes and colours with a smooth and elegant appearance. In vintage fashion, Bakelite is most commonly associated with jewellery and accessories. It has become highly collectible due to its decorative qualities and status as a material representative of the Art Deco and Machine Age aesthetic movements.

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BOLO (BE ON THE LOOKOUT)

Refers to a highly sought-after item or specific style that a vintage or secondhand buyer is searching for. If a seller asks you to BOLO for a particular item, it means to keep your eyes peeled while you’re hunting.

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BUY-BACK PROGRAM

A formalized program offered by retailers and brands where customers are encouraged to return their old or unwanted items from that brand, regardless of condition, in exchange for store credit, a discount or a voucher. These schemes are a form of corporate participation in recommerce and the circular economy, with the goal of ensuring garments can be repaired, resold or recycled rather than ending up in a landfill. Critics argue that buy-back programs are intended to cut out independent sellers in order to maximize profits. See also: Take-back scheme.

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BY THE POUND or KILO SALE

A popular, large-scale selling event, most often for vintage and secondhand clothing, where buyers purchase items based on their total weight rather than per individual piece. This pricing structure encourages buyers to select dense, high-quality fabrics, and requires pickers to be highly skilled in estimating the weight-to-value ratio to maximize their profit.

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CELLULOID

A type of early plastic comprised of camphor, alcohol and fillers widely used in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and commonly found in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Celluloid is actually a trade name but is also used generically to refer to the type of plastic it is. It could be easily moulded into a variety of shapes, colours and patterns, making it a popular material for fashion accessories such as buttons, hair clips and combs. Sometimes called “French Ivory.”

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CIRCULAR ECONOMY

A high-level economic system designed as an alternative to the traditional “take, make, dispose” linear model of production. In the context of buying and selling, it emphasizes keeping products, components and materials in use at their highest value for the longest possible time, often through methods like repair, recommerce and upcycling. This system fundamentally seeks to eliminate waste and regenerate natural resources, with circular fashion being its application to the textile and apparel industries.

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CIRCULAR FASHION

An economic model that seeks to eliminate waste and pollution by keeping specifically clothing and textiles in continuous use for as long as possible. Rather than the traditional “take, make, dispose” linear model, circular fashion ensures that garments are designed for durability, repaired when damaged, and then passed on through recommerce or upcycled when they reach the end of their original life.

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COLLECTIBLE/COLLECTABLE

An item that is sought after by someone to add to a collection, such as decorative objects or toys of a particular series. Often collectibles have some value, depending on rarity.

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CONSIGNMENT

A deal whereby a person gives products to another party to sell. The consignor either receives money upfront from the seller, which is common in the vintage world, or receives a cut of the sale.

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CRAZING

The network of fine cracks that appear on the surface of vintage objects, especially ceramics and glass, which is the natural result of aging and exposure to environmental conditions such as heat, humidity and sunlight. Crazing can add to the history and uniqueness of a vintage item, but can also have an impact on its appearance, value and function. Generally, a previously food-safe item that experiences crazing means it should be used for decorative use only.

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CREDENTIAL CLOTHING

A term used by rag houses and wholesalers to refer to used clothing that is collected directly from donation points (such as bins or drives, before they hit a thrift store) and sold in bulk, unsorted and untouched. These bales are considered “credentialed” because they retain the highest chance of containing premium or unique items before being graded and processed, making them highly sought after by pickers and resellers.

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CURATED VINTAGE

An edited selection of vintage goods that align with current trends, and that are styled or merchandised as if in a retail store or editorial spread in a magazine.

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CURIO

A decorative item that is considered unusual, rare or otherwise special.

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DEAD PILE / DEATH PILE

A collection of unlisted inventory items that have been left by a seller to accumulate, resulting in “dead” inventory.

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DEADSTOCK

A product or fabric that never sold while in stores or that was over-purchased by a retailer and is still new, even though it may be old or out-of-season. These items may have been donated to charity, sold to consignment stores or wound up at liquidation centres. See also: overstock.

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DEALER

Someone who buys and sells vintage and/or antiques as their business. Often used specifically to describe someone who maintains strong connections in the vintage and/or antiques market, who maintains trading relationships and who can conduct appraisals. Dealers may work for an antiques company or auction house, or run their own bricks-and-mortar or online shop. See also: picker, seller.

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DIGITAL PASSPORT

A secured, traceable record, often enabled by blockchain technology, that registers an item’s complete lifecycle. For luxury and high-end vintage pieces, this record includes details of the original manufacture, all subsequent ownership transfers, and service or repair history. It acts as a verifiable digital certificate of provenance and authenticity, linking the physical item to its unique, unalterable digital identity.

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DOUBLE-STITCH

A sewing technique that uses two parallel lines of stitching made close together. The theory is this creates a stronger and more durable seam — but if the thread begins to unravel, the whole hem can unravel, too, which is why single-stitch tends to be more sought-after with vintage clothing. The double-stitch technique has been commonly used in the manufacture of clothing as of the late 1990s to reinforce high-stress areas such as seams, hemlines and pockets. See also: single-stitch.

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DROP

A selling strategy, originally popularized by streetwear brands, where a highly curated selection of new inventory is released at a specific time (sometimes a drop may be unannounced, or have a short window of promotion). Resellers use this selling method to showcase a collection and/or to create a sense of urgency and scarcity, to generate demand for rare or desirable vintage items among buyers.

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EPHEMERA

Paper items or crafts, such as tickets, ads, cards and posters that were intended to be thrown away after using and are now considered collectibles.

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ESTATE SALE

A process by which a large portion of a person’s items are liquidated, usually due to downsizing or death. Items are tagged with prices, and, unless it’s set up as an estate auction with bids, are usually sold on a first come-first serve basis.

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EUC (EXCELLENT USED CONDITION)

An acronym used in online resale listings to indicate that a pre-owned item is in near-mint condition, showing very minimal, often imperceptible, signs of wear. While it is not NWT (new with tags) or NWOT (new without tags), a piece listed as EUC has been well-maintained, potentially worn or used only a handful of times, and remains structurally and aesthetically superior to an item in GUC (good used condition).

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FLEA MARKET

A gathering of vendors selling vintage, antiques and secondhand items, usually held outdoors, but also in indoor event spaces.

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FLIPPING

The practice of acquiring an item at a low price (typically from a charity shop or estate sale), then reselling it for a profit. Some people will flip with no alteration to the item, but many resellers will modify or improve the condition of an item they acquire, meaning it's more than a straight flip. The alteration may involve deep cleaning, simple repairs or even upcycling elements.

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FIRST IN, FIRST OUT (FIFO)

An inventory management system that prioritizes the sale of older items in a collection or stock first, before selling the more newly acquired items.

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FOXING

A phenomenon that occurs to old mirrors in which discolouration appears on the mirror’s surface, making it appear tarnished or misty. This discolouration is caused by a reaction between the silvering on the back of the mirror and moisture that has entered the mirror over time.

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Foxing is seen as a desirable characteristic to some vintage lovers because it adds to the character and charm of the piece. However, some view it as a flaw or imperfection, as it can detract from the clarity of the mirror's reflection — foxing can be repaired if the silvering on the back of the mirror is replaced — this is best left to a pro, though, and can be expensive.

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GARAGE SALE

An event whereby people sell unwanted possessions, usually held in the garage, driveway, or yard of their home. Items are tagged with prices, and bargaining is commonplace. Garage sales are often advertised on neighbourhood flyers or in online communities, with posted hours of operation. See also: rummage sale, tag sale, yard sale.

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GUC (GOOD USED CONDITION)

An acronym for “good used condition,” used in online listings, particularly in clothing and furniture resale, to describe an item's condition. It signifies that the piece is pre-owned and shows moderate, visible signs of wear consistent with regular use, but remains fully functional and aesthetically pleasing. It is generally understood to be a step below EUC (excellent used condition).

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ISO (IN SEARCH OF)

An acronym frequently used by buyers on social media, buy-sell marketplaces and online forums. It is used as a header for a post or listing to indicate that the user is actively looking to purchase a specific item. A buyer might post, "ISO: 1970s Macrame Plant Hanger," to alert sellers and pickers to a BOLO (Be On The Lookout) request.

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IN THE WILD

A phrase used by thrifters and pickers to describe the act of finding a valuable, sought-after or rare item during a shopping or sourcing trip. The term emphasizes the discovery of a “treasure” in a traditionally low-value or chaotic environment, such as a flea market, thrift store or charity shop, as opposed to finding it through a carefully curated vintage online shop.

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HONEY HOLE

A location or store that is particularly rich in vintage or secondhand items in good condition and at a reasonable price. Considered a goldmine or hidden gem for shoppers.

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MAKER’S MARK

The emblem, etching or inscription on a piece that identifies the manufacturer or artist who produced it.

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MEMORABILIA

Mementos, often part of a collection that relates to a particular subject, such as concert paraphernalia or baseball cards.

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Continued below

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Continued from above

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NEW WITH TAGS / “NWT”

Describes an item of clothing or accessory that has never been worn or used, and still has its original tag attached, indicating its new, unused condition.

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NEW WITHOUT TAGS / “NWOT”

Describes vintage items that have never been worn or used, but that are missing their original tags or original packaging. Despite the absence of tags, vintage lovers and collectors still consider “new without tags” items to be valuable finds, especially if they are in pristine condition and retain their original quality and craftsmanship.

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NOSTALGIA

A contemplative, often mournful, state of longing for the past.

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NOT FOR SALE / “NFS”

A phrase used to describe vintage items that are highly prized and cherished by their owners, who have no intention of letting them go. These items may hold sentimental value, be rare or one-of-a-kind, or hold historical significance, making them priceless and irreplaceable in the eyes of vintage enthusiasts.

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OVERSTOCK

See deadstock.

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PATINA

A sheen on a surface, especially metal or wood, developed through age, ongoing use or changing chemical makeup that lends to the character of a piece. Some forms of patina, like on solid brass, can be polished away.

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PICKER

Someone who visits estate sales, flea markets, auctions, thrift stores, rag houses, etc. to find and buy items. Traditionally, a picker would provide these items to a dealer, and get a cut of the profits when the piece sold.

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But with eBay, Facebook Marketplace, Instagram and other online selling platforms all offering ways to list items, many pickers have become dealers or sellers themselves. They can list and sell items without a third party, and keep the profit. See also: dealer, seller.

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PRE-LOVED

See pre-owned.

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PRE-OWNED

Used to describe a contemporary secondhand item (usually 2000 and later). See also: pre-loved.

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PROVENANCE

The origin or history of an item. Sometimes antiques or vintage pieces will come with a record of their history, which can increase their value. Other times, a maker’s mark can help to identify provenance.

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RAG HOUSE

A facility that processes used clothing bought in bales from charities that receive donations. Graders at the rag house sort through the items to determine what can be sold in large collections to vintage clothing wholesalers, turned into rags, or sent overseas for sale or disposal. Rag houses sometimes employ their own pickers to pull items for the film and television industry.

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RECOMMERCE

A portmanteau of “resale” and “e-commerce” specifically referring to the large-scale, formalized business of selling previously owned or used items. This term is distinct from traditional secondhand or thrift stores, often referring to dedicated platforms, buy-back programs from brands and companies built on the principle of the circular economy. Recommerce aims to professionalize and standardize the process of resale.

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RELIC

An object, usually of antiquity, that is held in high regard.

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REPRODUCTION

A copy or duplicate of a manufactured item. May be less expensive than the original especially if it’s furniture or art.

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RESELLER

Often used interchangeably with seller. All vintage up for sale is, by definition, resold, since it was originally purchased by someone years ago. May also be used to describe someone who acquires vintage pieces from another seller, then sells it again. See also: seller.

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RETRO

A descriptor for a style that is of the past, or that mimics it. Often used to describe new or contemporary items that look like older pieces. These are often reproductions of a designer style and can be more affordable than the original.

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ROCKABILLY

A style of clothing that emerged in the 1950s, characterized by a fusion of rock-and-roll and country music. The style is known for its bold and rebellious aesthetic, featuring items such as tight-fitting jeans, leather jackets, bandanas and plaid shirts.

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For women, feminine elements such as floral prints and bright lipstick were often paired with edgier pieces such as sneakers or biker jackets. Rockabilly was popular among the youth of the time, particularly those who identified as “greasers,” and is now considered an iconic vintage look.

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RUMMAGE SALE

See garage sale.

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SECONDHAND

An item that was used at least once by another person.

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SELLER

Someone who acquires and markets vintage pieces for sale. Often used to describe the proprietor of online-based shops. See also: dealer, reseller.

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SINGLE-STITCH

A sewing technique used to construct clothing items. A single-stitch is made by passing the needle and thread through the fabric once and then pulling it tight, creating a single line of stitching. This technique was commonly used in the manufacture of vintage clothing, particularly in the 1980s and 1990s.

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Single-stitch is valued for its durability and longevity, as the construction tends to last longer than other types of stitching, particularly in high-stress areas such as seams and hemlines. See also: double-stitch.

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SLOW FASHION

A philosophical approach to clothing consumption and production that champions quality over quantity, conscious consumption and the use of long-lasting, timeless garments. It is the direct antithesis of “fast fashion.” By prioritizing well-made pieces, including vintage and pre-owned items, it encourages buyers to slow down the consumption cycle and invest in items with longevity and provenance.

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TAG SALE

See garage sale.

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TAKE-BACK SCHEME

See buy-back program.

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THRIFTING

The act of browsing or buying at garage sales, thrift shops (i.e. Goodwill, Value Village) or flea markets. “Thrift” is used colloquially as a noun for items that were purchased from one of the aforementioned places.

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TROMPE L’OEIL

A French phrase that translates to “fool the eye.” It is a style of painting and decoration that creates the illusion of hyper-realistic, three-dimensional objects and scenes on flat surfaces.

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UNION LABEL

Refers to a tag or label found in vintage clothing items that indicate they were manufactured by a unionized company. Union labels can be used to date a piece of clothing based on the design of the tag. The label serves as a symbol of quality and represents the efforts of workers to secure fair wages and working conditions through collective bargaining. The most prolific union label is the International Ladies’ Garment Workers Union.

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UNIQUE

Used to describe something that is unlike anything else, possessing qualities or characteristics that distinguish it from all others. It means one-of-a-kind. While vintage pieces may seem unique because you haven’t seen another one like it, it doesn’t mean there aren’t many of them out in the world. When describing vintage items, use words like “unique” and “one-of-a-kind” sparingly — or add some extra contextualization by calling it “hard-to-find.”

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VINTAGE

A period of manufacture, i.e. a 1960s vintage lamp. Also used to describe any item from the past that has historical significance, or is of good quality. Generally accepted to be items 20 years and older, though this is debated. Some say 40 years and older.

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VINTAGE-INSPIRED

A new or contemporary item that has the look of something older.

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YARD SALE

See garage sale.

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If you have a term you’d like to see added, please send it to us.

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